Logistics of your Project: Schedule and Budget

Posted on May 10, 2012 by kdrozda

Decision-making
If you are a couple or a family, it is helpful for one person to be responsible for getting consensus on decisions and communicating with the design and construction team. There are a surprising number of tasks and decisions that need to be made, all of which become time-critical once construction starts.

Will you work with a general contractor? Most people opt to work with a general contractor. Some people prefer to be their own general contractor if they are experienced in building trades or if the project is small and they have the time to manage it. There are a number of advantages to using an experienced general contractor, especially for larger projects.

Schedule
Your project can be broken into three phases. The first phase is design and planning. This is when you figure out what you want to do, what it’s going to look like, and how it will function. Your architect will draw up drawings for permit, contractor pricing, and construction. You and/or your architect will select finishes, materials, fixtures, and appliances. A good rule of thumb is that the planning and design takes about as long as the construction. The more decisions get made during the planning phase, the smoother your construction will go.

The second phase is permit and contractor selection. Small kitchen or bathroom remodel permits can often be obtained the same day you apply, or “over the counter”. Larger projects or ones that involve structural engineering often are taken in by the building department for processing. If you do need a permit, you need to allow time for the permit process. Times to process permits vary, depending on the busyness of the building department. For budgeting purposes, assume four to eight weeks. This allows a maximum of three weeks to get their first comments, two weeks to respond to their comments, and three weeks for them to process the response. If there are no comments or revisions required, you may get a permit in four weeks.

Budget
Few people have an unlimited budget when it comes to house remodels. Coming up with a reasonable budget can be based on a number of different factors. If you are concerned about over-building for the value of your house and for the neighborhood, talk to your realtor about comparables and what features will add to the resale value of your house. You could start thinking about the project with a budget based on cost per square foot – $200/sf for a remodel and $300/sf for an addition. This covers basic mid-level construction. Custom features and expensive finishes quickly add to the basic costs. It is important to note that the smaller the project, the less accurate these square-foot budgets are.

The following table outlines some rough numbers for budgeting cost and schedule. Baths and kitchen remodels have a wide range, because they are so variable. For example, the basic small bath remodel assumes that you will replace fixtures in the same place, with new floor and wall tile, new light fixtures, new wallboard and paint. If you decide to move or add bath fixtures, you can budget $1500 per fixture and add to the basic small bath price. If you’re just replacing tile and painting, it would be less.

It is always good to have some contingency money in your budget. Fifteen to twenty percent is not unreasonable for additions. This covers things are discovered during construction, that should be done while the walls are open and the foundation exposed. Common extras include repair of rotted framing, beefing up structure that doesn’t meet current codes, and replacing floor slabs or footings that aren’t properly reinforced.

Kitchens are very personal. Pricing for a kitchen remodel is highly variable, depending on the quality of cabinets, counter material, and appliances selected. The kitchen numbers below assume a nice mid-level budget, not the cheapest but not most expensive.

project	design/ planning	permit	construction	total time	budget cost
sm. bath – same layout	6-8 wks	1 day	6-8 wks	3-4 mos	$15-30,000
sm. bath – relocate fixtures	12-16 wks	1 day	12-16 wks	6-8 mos	$20-35,000
master bath – large	12-16 wks	1 day	12-16 wks	6-8 mos	$50-70,000
kitchen – no addition	12 wks	1 day	12 wks	6 mos	$45-60,000
kitchen -with addition	12 wks	3 wks	12-16 wks	6-7 mos	$150,000
kitchen/bath	16-20 wks	1 day	16-20 wks	8-10 mos	$70-100,000
finish basement w/new slab, partial new foundation, bath & laundry	16 wks	2 days	16 wks	8 mos	$150,000
new house or addition	12 mos	8 wks	12-15 mos	2 years +	$300/sf
remodel of existing space					$200/sf

Construction costs are only one element of your budget. Make sure you budget for your architect, structural engineer, civil engineer, surveyor, interior designer, landscape architect, and building permit fees. If you will need to move out, figure the cost of storing your furniture and renting temporary housing.

Logistics
Another aspect of planning your project is whether you can live in the house during construction. Once you have an idea of the size of your project, your architect or contractor can give you an idea of whether it is practical to live in the house during construction. The answer is not the same for every homeowner or every remodel project. For the contractor working around people living in the house adds time and cost to the construction. It can be surprisingly stressful to live without a kitchen, shower or toilet for even short periods of time. Remember that babies and young children will not be as tolerant of construction fumes, dust and noise as older children or adults. And if you’re working out of a home office, you’ll need to make sure you can stay open for business during the construction.

If you do choose to move out, plan to stay close to the construction site. You will want to be available on a daily basis to make sure the contractor’s questions are answered promptly. Once construction starts, you can plan on a steady stream of questions and minor decisions.

It is NOT a good idea to go on an extended vacation expecting everything to be done when you get back. If you are not around when the contractor has a question, he or she will make the decision for you. Drawings are designed to convey information, but there is most likely a difference between what you envisioned and what the contractor understood from the drawings. If you are around, you are more likely to catch a miscommunication earlier when it is easier to fix.

Defining Your Project

Posted on May 10, 2012 by kdrozda

Planning a remodel of addition is a large, complicated and often daunting task. Having an understanding of the big picture, knowing where to start, and then taking things one step at a time will make it easier. The first step involves some disciplined thought about what you want and why. Making a prioritized list of the things you want will help if you end up needing to pare down the size of your project or phase things out over a several years.

Defining your project does not mean that you need to come up with a specific floor plan. In fact, if you plan to work with an architect you’ll get the most benefit from their creative thinking by NOT showing them a plan of exactly what you want to do. Think about defining your project in terms of what you want to accomplish – more storage, another bathroom, a more efficient kitchen. Show your designer photos of rooms or elements that you like so that they understand your taste.

Remodel projects fall into several distinct categories. Often projects are a combination of two or more categories. If you’re considering several projects, have a master plan. Building projects should always be done before landscaping upgrades.

Updating worn or dated finishes and appliances
Two of the most common remodel projects are upgrades to kitchens and baths. These rooms get a lot of use, and can start to look tired and shabby. Updating finishes and fixtures without changing the layout is one of the most cost-effective upgrades.

For the most economical remodel, think about replacing fixtures and finishes that are already worn and need replacing. For example, changing the configuration of a brand-new kitchen is not as cost-effective as upgrading fixtures and appliances in a kitchen from the last century.

Reconfiguring an inefficient layout
If you have a tight budget, don’t have any room to expand, or feel that you have enough space already, reconfiguring can do wonders for the functionality of your spaces. Relocating a closet can give you much-needed space to expand the kitchen or add a shower to the bathroom. Changing the location of a door can improve the circulation and function of a room. Taking out a wall between kitchen and dining room makes both rooms feel more spacious without adding square footage.

Creating more room
If your space needs can’t be met by taking out a wall or reconfiguring the space you have already, it’s time to think about an addition. The easiest and most cost-effective addition is horizontal – because it doesn’t affect the spaces below. Sometimes a very small addition in the right place can make all the difference. In other cases it makes sense to add a whole room. Adding vertically is more complicated, especially if you’re adding over living space. By more complicated, I mean you’ll more likely want to move out during at least part of the construction time. Your contractor will often end up needing to take out part of the walls and floor below to reinforce the structure. Sometimes the ceiling needs to come out as well to reinforce floor joists.

Updating an older plan for contemporary living
Older floor houses are full of charm, but often need adapting to the way we use houses today. The most common updates are; a larger kitchen open to the living or dining areas, a master bedroom suite with large bath and walk-in closet, better access to the rear yard, and more storage space. Updating an older house is also a great opportunity to add insulation to walls and attic, update plumbing and electrical systems,

Increasing energy efficiency
Remodel projects provide a good opportunity to upgrade the energy efficiency of your house. The three most cost-effective things you can do are insulate, insulate and insulate. This means insulating and sealing walls, floors, and attics or roofs. Think about replacing single-pane windows and sliding doors with double-pane insulated glass models. Replace inefficient appliances, water heaters and furnaces with Energy Star certified models. Check your heating and air conditioning ducts for efficiency and have them sealed to prevent leakage.

When you’re better off finding a different house
While a great deal can be done to modify a house to your needs, sometimes it makes more sense to buy another house. If you’re living in a multi-story house and you have trouble negotiating stairs, it’s time to look for a new house without stairs. If you’ve always dreamed of having a swimming pool in the back yard and your current yard is the size of a postage stamp, consider buying a house with a large enough yard – or one with a pool already built!

A word of caution
Scope Creep is the tendency of a project to get bigger and bigger as you work on it. Once you get started fixing up your house, it is often difficult to stop. If you remodel one bathroom, it suddenly looks so good that you want to do the other ones. If you update your kitchen, the living and dining rooms look shabby by comparison. This is where setting a budget and sticking to it comes in handy. You may be thinking in terms of “this is how much money I’ll spend this year” or “this is how much money is worth putting into this house”.

Ten Fun Table Lamps

Posted on April 19, 2012 by kdrozda

Some people collect hats. I have one client who collects designer chairs. I may have to start collecting designer lamps. The following are my top ten picks out of a multitude of great options. Prices range from $108 to just over $1000 depending on the designer and the size of the lamp. Many are in the $100-200 “economical” range.

1. Wow – is this a lamp or a sculpture? Foscarini Anisha Table Lamp is $616 at Lumens Light + Living. Comes in red or white. I like the pure simplicity of the white.

2. For a spot of color try the Twiggy Table Lamp by Foscarini $884 at Lumens Light + Living. We had to have one that actually looked like a lamp. This one qualifies as “fun” because it is red (of course) and because it has a distinctly un-traditional feel.

3. If you like unique designs that you won’t see in your friend’s house, try Yanko Design’s Designer Store. Their Block Lamp won an award for Excellent Swedish Design in 1998. It sells for $119 and comes with a choice of black, red or white cords. It is wired for EU standard electricity and requires an adapter for US current.

4. Pablo Designs Lim Lamp is an ultra-sleek, ultra-thin LED task light. There is also a desk-top version with a rectangular base but you can’t beat this one for sheer minimal elegance. Sold at 2modern for $250-350.

5. And while we’re talking minimal – here’s the spherical counterpoint: the Dioscuri Table Lamp by Artemide $275 (and up) at form+function comes in four sizes – 6”, 10”, 14” and 17”. I’d be tempted to use the larger ones as floor lamps.

6. I love the shape of these. And I love the way you can turn them on and off or dim them just by touching the base. Dimm-System P1 Touch lamp by Holtkoetter is $390-550 at Lumens Light+Living.

7. Of course you can’t beat the classic modernist simplicity of the Glo-Ball T by Flos sold for $696 at form+function.

8. And what would we do without the classic “light bulb in a socket” style of minimalism. Mini Cord Lamp by Design House Stockholm is $139 from Lumens Light + Living. Also comes in a larger floor lamp version. But that’s another post.

9. Imagine the fun you could have with the May Day light by Flos for $108 at form+function. It has a shatter resistant shade and it’s waterproof! You can hang it from the ceiling, rest it on a table, or hang it on the wall. I’m still not sure why it needs to be waterproof, but the possibilities are endless . . .

10. . . .and speaking of endless, this very snake-like lamp has a flexible upper portion that can be bent and coiled in any direction. The ALIZZ C. Cooper Table Lamp is $985 from form+function.

This last one is a bonus and a bit of a mystery, because I couldn’t find it for sale anywhere. It is called the Toto Twins Lamps by designer Andrej Cverha. Tiny LED bulbs at the end of each tube reflect off the polished discs. But that doesn’t begin to describe it!

You’ll notice that for each lamp I list one place you can buy it online, plus the price I saw listed. I am not recommending actual stores or guaranteeing prices. If you fall in love with one of them – shop around!

Energy Rating Systems

Posted on March 30, 2012 by kdrozda

Energy efficiency has been a part of California building codes for years, and is a very important part of green building practice.

The recent push for energy efficiency in California is partly fueled by the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC) Strategic Plan published in 2008, aiming for all new residential construction in California to be Zero Net Energy (ZNE) by 2020. What does this mean? A home is considered ZNE when it produces more energy than it uses, typically measured over a year. This is achieved by both reducing your energy footprint and generating electricity – for example, by using a solar array or wind turbine.

ENERGY STAR for Homes
EnergyStar is a joint program of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy. Its focus is on efficiency of energy consumption.

You’ve probably noticed EnergyStar on appliances, light bulbs, and various other consumer products. You may not have realized that EnergyStar can apply to buildings as well.

To earn the Energy Star, a home must meet guidelines for energy efficiency set by the U.S. EPA. This home must be at least 15% more efficient than a house built to current energy codes. Typically, Energy Star homes include energy-saving features that make them 20-30% more efficient than standard homes.

A Home Energy Rater reviews your house plans, makes recommendations to improve energy efficiency, and does inspections during construction. For existing homes, the EnergyStar website has online tools that you can use to identify areas for improvement, along with helpful how-to advice for the home handyperson.

Cost of Energy Star rating for a new single-family home: Total $250-$425, including $50-75 for the certificate and $250-350 for the services of an EnergyStar rater
Applies to: New homes throughout the U.S.
Comments: uses same calculation method as Title 24 energy report
Website: www.energystar.gov

HERS II Rating
California Home Energy Rating System (HERS) is a program administered by the California Energy Commission for rating energy efficiency only. The Whole House HERS II rating uses the same calculation method as the Title24 report required for new construction. It can be applied to new or existing homes.

A HERS Building Performance Contractor evaluates building construction and performs on-site testing including a pressure test for air leaks, verification of attic insulation, and a duct leakage test. This is an objective rating of the building’s energy efficiency because the rating is based only on the building, not on utility bills.

The HERS rater will make recommendations for improving the energy efficiency of the home, comparing the cost of improvement against the utility bill savings.

The Certificate rates buildings on a scale of 0-250, with “250” or more likely to have very high energy bills, “100” using the same energy as a new home that meets California 2008 Energy codes, and “0” a super-efficient “Net Zero Energy” home that consumes no more energy than it produces.

Cost of HERS II Whole-House rating for a single-family home: Total $335-$1,035, includes $35 certificate plus $300-1,000 for the services of a HERS rater
Applies to: new and existing single family homes, plus multifamily buildings of three stories or less in California
Comments: sometimes included in the disclosure package of a home for sale
Website: www.energy.ca.gov

For the sake of comparison, the fees listed above are based on a medium-sized home. Green rater services for custom homes will vary considerably depending on the size of the home, the location, and the types of services required. Fees will also vary depending on the individual rater.

The California Center for Sustainable Energy www.energycenter.org offers a $300 rebate for Home Energy rating, plus additional rebates for energy-related improvements. Check for rebates from local utility companies as well.

Green Rating Systems

Posted on March 30, 2012 by kdrozda

Thinking about a green rating for your new home or remodel? It’s important to know the different rating systems. In addition to building code enforcement, city and state agencies are now requiring some level of green building practice for new construction and substantial remodels.

The most two most widely used green rating systems for residential construction in California are:

GreenPoint Rating
GreenPoint Rated is administered by Build It Green as a green building rating system for new residential construction in California. Points are awarded across five different categories including energy efficiency, resource conservation, indoor air quality, water conservation, and community.

Some individual building departments require new construction to meet standards set by the GreenPointRated checklist, but do not require actual certification.

Cost of Green Point Rating for a new single-family home: Total $2,500-$2,800, including $400 certification fee, plus $2,100-$2,400 for the services of a rater
Applies to: single-family or multi-family homes in California
Comments: used to be the residential alternative to LEED certification
More information: www.builditgreen.org

LEED Certification
LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, a program of the U.S. Green Building Council. LEED certification also awards points across five categories including energy efficiency, site planning, water management, material use, and indoor air quality.

While it was originally designed as a program for commercial office buildings, LEED now has a certification designation for residential design and construction as well.

Cost of LEED-H certification for a single-family home: Total: $6,925-$10,525 Includes $225 for registration, $300 for certification, $400-$2,000 for the Provider, and $6,000-$8,000 for the services of a Green Rater.
Applies to: building design and construction, building operation and maintenance, interior design and construction, homes, and neighborhood development throughout the U.S.
Comments: most expensive form of green building rating
Website: www.usgbc-ncc.org

Design Phases of a Project

Posted on March 8, 2012 by kdrozda

As soon as you start talking to an architect about your project, you will hear terminology used to describe a design process. These six phases organize and help to make the design process more efficient. Knowing them will prepare you for the decisions you need to make at each point in the project.

1. Pre-Design
This phase is the preparation for design. If required a surveyor prepares a site survey. The architect will check building codes and obtain or prepare drawings of existing conditions. For larger and more complicated projects, the Architect and the Owner mutually determine the circumstances and constraints of the project. The result of Pre-design work is often a written program. This phase is complete when the Owner and Architect agree that the scope of work is well defined.

2. Schematic Design
The first phase establishes the general scope, conceptual design, scale and relationships among the components of the project. The primary objective is to arrive at a clearly defined, feasible concept while exploring the most promising alternative design solutions. The Architect will prepare a series of rough plans, known as schematics, which show the general arrangement of rooms and of the building on the site. Models and/or illustrations are prepared to help visualize the project as necessary. The project proceeds to the next phase when the Owner approves the Schematic Design.

3. Design Development
The Architect expands upon the approved schematic design studies to develop more detailed drawings illustrating other aspects of the proposed design. Floor plans show all the rooms in correct size and shape. Outline specifications are prepared listing the major materials and room finishes. The Architect verifies that the design complies with building codes and works with engineers to design the structure, mechanical and electrical systems. The project proceeds to the next phase when the Owner approves the Design Development documents, and selects all equipment, fixtures, fittings and finishes to be used in the project.

4. Construction Documents
Once the Owner has approved the Design Development phase, the Architect prepares detailed working drawings (formerly known as blueprints) and specifications, which the Contractor will use to establish actual construction cost and build the project. These drawings and specifications become part of the construction contract. They are used to submit for permit, for contractor pricing, and for construction. The Architect may also assist the Owner in the preparation of bidding forms.

5. Bidding/Negotiation Phase
The Owner selects and hires the Contractor. If the Owners are choosing from among several Contractors, the Architect can help to prepare bidding documents as well as invitations to bid and instructions to bidders, the conditions of the contract, and the form of agreement between the Owner and the Contractor.

6. Construction Contract Administration Phase
While the Contractor will physically build the project, the Architect can assist the Owner by making site visits to observe the construction to determine, in general, if the project is being built according to the plans and specifications. The Architect may also review and approve the Contractor’s applications for payment, process change orders, and generally keep the Owner informed of the project’s progress. The Contractor is solely responsible for construction methods, techniques, schedules, and procedures.

Working With An Architect

Posted on February 16, 2012 by kdrozda

Starting your first remodel or addition project can be daunting. It opens a whole new world of details and procedures. Hiring a design professional to lead you through that process does wonders to streamline the project, saving time and money. You will find that even when you hire professionals to do most of the work, there are a surprising number of things you still have to do. At the very least, you will be required to hire the architect, hire the contractor, provide some of the site documentation, and approve the designs.

What Do Architects Do?
Architects are trained to be experts in the use or function of spaces, the aesthetics of spaces (look, feel, sound and smell), the construction of spaces, and the management of building projects.

They start by talking to you about your functional needs and aesthetic preferences. They produce design drawings for your approval, and produce documents for permit and construction. They negotiate the permit process, help you select a contractor, and remain available during construction to answer questions and make changes.

Architects also design kitchens and custom cabinets, consult on interior or exterior color palettes, and often lay out the building components in landscape designs. They do not generally help in the selection of furniture, carpeting, draperies or artwork.

Design projects come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so you need to be specific about what part your architect will play. Most architects are willing to tailor their services to your needs.

When Do You Need an Architect?
Some projects are small enough that your contractor can get the permit with a simple drawing or even without drawings. If a project involves only one trade, that trade can generally get a permit over the counter. Projects that fall into this category are – roofing, finishes, window and door replacement, water heater or furnace replacement, electrical panel upgrades, and minor plumbing repairs or upgrades.

Most homes and residential accessory structures may be designed and drawn by non-professionals. The house must be an owner-occupied single-family dwelling of two stories or less. All commercial structures and more complicated homes are required to be designed by a Registered Engineer or Architect who must sign each drawings with his/her stamp and license number. Even when an architect is not strictly required, most homeowners hire an architect to streamline the process and improve the end result.

Finding the Right Architect for You
Your architect is someone who will work closely with you throughout the design and construction process. In addition to liking their aesthetic sense, you want someone who:

has good communication skills
listens to you and answers questions
returns phone calls, meets deadlines, and generally has a professional manner
has experience appropriate to your project

Good Sources for Finding an Architect:
Every architect has an individual style and approach. You should not rush this process, but take the time you need to make the right decision. A personal referral is always better than picking someone off a list. Places to start:

talk to friends and neighbors who have done similar projects
ask your Realtor
ask local builders or trades people
AIA (American Institute of Architects) database www.architectfinder.aia.org
online services like Service Magic or Construction Deal
for restoration projects, check with your local historical or preservation society

Plan to meet with several prospective architects, starting with a telephone conversation to weed out architects who don’t have the time or interest in your project. You may pick three or four questions to ask over the phone, and expect to ask the others in a more lengthy interview. It is important that you feel comfortable working with the architect. They should be someone you feel you can trust, and someone who listens to you.

Questions to Ask an Architect:
Some of the questions you will probably ask on the phone before they even visit your project site. Others you will ask once you are talking to them in person.

describe the project, ask whether they do this type of work
how busy are they, and do they have the time to do your project?
is a fee for an interview at your home (or job site)?
request literature that describes the firm’s qualifications and experience (often a web site)
confirm that the architect you are meeting is the person who will actually work on your project
what is the architect’s design philosophy?
how long will the design part of the project take?
how does the architect establish fees?
how does the architect organize the process?
what does the architect expect you to provide?
what is the architect’s experience/track record with cost estimating?
what will the architect show you along the way to explain the project? will you see models, drawings or computer animations?
ask for references from past clients. find out how past clients feel about their new home
verify that your architect holds a current license. The California Architects Board www.cab.ca.gov/ is responsible for licensing. Membership in professional organizations like the AIA (American Institute of Architects) or the ASLA (American Society of Landscape Architects) is not required for licensing.
if your designer is not a licensed architect he/she can still do design and permit drawings for a single-family home of two stories or less in most jurisdictions. how will the architect handle signing permit drawings?
does the architect have a list of past clients that you can contact?

Intro to Prefab Housing

Posted on January 19, 2012 by kdrozda

A prefab house is one that is largely built in a shop and assembled in sections on the site. The concept has been around a long time, since a Michigan company called Alladin offered the first kit house in 1906. Sears, Roebuck & Co. started selling prefab house kits in 1908, selling nearly 100,000 by 1940. Prefab enjoyed a resurgence of popularity after World War II when hundreds of soldiers returned home to start families and needed housing that was both quick and cheap.

In recent years prefab housing has seen renewed popularity. Proponents claim that it is “greener” than stick-built housing, generating less construction waste and using fewer materials because it is built in a factory under controlled conditions. Dwell Magazine has been championing prefab design as a way for households of modest income to afford good, green modern design. Their Dec/Jan 2012 issue includes a 42 page article on the current state of prefab housing.

Summarizing the Dwell article, we realize that:

Prefab is perfect for vacation houses built on rugged and remote lots, where the expense of transporting materials, equipment and labor is a significant cost factor.

Some people opt for hybrid construction where only some of the building components, like the exterior walls, are prefabricated off-site.

One prefab house took two years to build, contrary to the common understanding that prefab is quicker than stick-built construction.

Another house ended up using insulated concrete form (ICF) panels when prefab of the exterior walls proved more expensive than building on site. Which goes to show that prefab is not always cheaper.

Some prefab companies estimate 9 months for design and 9-12 months for construction. This is about the same time required by a custom site-built house.

Prefab is a technique not a product. While it is not always the cheapest or quickest option for construction, it does have the advantage of predictability. Variables that affect on-site construction can be better controlled in a factory.

Dwell’s Shoppers Guide to Prefab Housing showcases 22 companies, each company having a slightly different way of working. Important items which may not be included in the price of prefab housing are: permits, land, site plans, site preparation, utility hook-ups, foundation, transportation, cost of assembly, additional materials, and parts to be purchased by homeowner

The discussion about pros and cons of prefab housing is passionate and detailed. To expand your grasp of the issues surrounding prefab construction, check out this thoughtful and detailed evaluation from 2008 by Chad Ludeman of Postgreen Homes. Tedd Benson of Bensonwood Homes has a lengthy and articulate response to this article, and Lloyd Alter of Trehugger mentioned a few points to consider as well. Allyson Wendt of Building Green added her thoughts on the future possibilities of affordable, green prefab.

Image: prefab home by Minarc.

Kitchen Remodel – Part 2: Finished at Last

Posted on December 20, 2011 by kdrozda

Did I say next week? I meant next MONTH (or two).

If I were designing this remodel for anybody else, it would take about three weeks. Maybe a month. Homeowner do-it-yourself projects always take longer. Projects that architects do for themselves run on geological time. When I mentioned to a colleague that we had been eight months without a stove, he said his own kitchen remodel had taken four years. I probably should have asked why it took so long but I was struck dumb by the idea of four years without a kitchen.

The highlights of the kitchen remodel were when we hired professionals to install the floor and counters. The rest of the time progress inched along as we grabbed an hour before or after work. Weekends we spent wearing our oldest clothes and covered in construction dust. The biggest job was prep for painting as we mudded, filled, caulked, and sanded the walls and trim. Now we know why the professionals just tear everything out and put up new.

I’ll let the photographs tell the story. On the left is the kitchen the way it was the day we bought the house. On the right is the remodeled kitchen. Same cabinets with new paint, reconfigured to accommodate new refrigerator and added dishwasher. The cabinet color was inspired by the color of the paper towel holder in the old kitchen. We call it 1950’s Cadillac blue, complete with chrome fittings and white upholstery – I mean counters. The Marmoleum floor tiles give a nod to the 50’s black and white tile kitchen floors.

It is difficult to say what made the biggest difference. I think it was taking the board off the window and letting in the sunlight. And of course the cabinets!

We are still getting used to where we’ve put things in the new kitchen. And loving the new dishwasher!

Hooked on Modern

Posted on November 26, 2011 by kdrozda

My introduction to architectural design idea websites was through Houzz and Remodelista who both had booths at the Dwell Conference in Los Angeles this year. I have to say they have completely changed my life! I’m not ready to ditch the bookcases full of design books, but I could definitely lose the magazines.

What is the best part about design websites? The search function! The possibilities are endless. No more leafing through back issues of magazine to find that special image you saw when you first read the magazine.

Design Idea Websites
www.houzz.com is a great image resource of over 200,000 architectural images that you can sort by type, style, and location. Exclusively showcasing residential architecture.
www.remodelista.com is good for finding contemporary design products.
www.dornob.com has both architecture and home products, including a category for prefab houses (which counts as both architecture AND product)
http://inhabitat.com is a blog devoted to the future of design, tracking the innovations in technology, practices and materials that are pushing architecture and home design towards a smarter and more sustainable future.
www.dwell.com is an offshoot of Dwell Magazine, and an established resource for contemporary architecture and products.
www.wallpaper.com is the online presence of Wallpaper Magazine for design, interiors, fashion, art, lifestyle
www.padstyle.com is a décor blog with posts on stylish contemporary furnishings for your home. Check out “top 25 interior design & furniture blogs”

Modern Design Shopping
When you get tired of West Elm and Design Within Reach check out a few of these websites:
www.2modern.com features modern furniture and lighting
www.ducducnyc.com sells modern furniture for babies and children
www.switchmodern.com has contemporary and classic modern design products, with a category for pet furniture and accessories!
www.re-modern.com features sustainable modern design, and gives 1% of their profits to environmental causes
http://grassrootsmodern.com promotes contemporary design at affordable prices

How inspiring to see all these new products and ideas!

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